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| *Vultures Knob>>>Road Bike |
Does anyone know if its easy to pass the motorcycle road test with a Yamaha YZF 600 sports bike? |
Does anyone know if its easy to pass the motorcycle road test with a Yamaha YZF 600 sports bike? i passed my test on my YZF R1 no problems at all. just take the time to get familiar with your bike and you will do fine. get your confidence up and remember not to stare at a point or you will go straight to it. Should be. Any bike smaller than a cruiser, the smaller the better. You don't have the worst bike for that test. The best would be a little 250 or even smaller. Practice turning in little circles without putting your foot down. Hint: instead of using the throttle at low speed, use the clutch to control acceleration. It's much smoother. It is very difficult. I failed terribly when I took the test on my R6. The best kind of bike to take the test on is a dual sport (street legal dirtbike). They have a much better turning capabilities versus a sport bike. Personal Experience. Usually its is much harder on any sport bike as they have limited steering lock. If you have the opportunity to take it on anything else do so. Sport bikes arnt made for slow speed parking lot circles and such. the test can be done on ANY bike provided that u have the right technique. i saw 1 fail the test on a small bike because he had what i call 'target fixtation'. he was staring at the cones. the bike will go where u look. if u stare at a cone, u will surely hit it, and if u hit enough of them, u fail. the easiest way to control a bike...and it could be a dirt bike, or it could be a big gold wing; is to get familar with how to get into and ride in the friction zone. its a 'secret' that makes the bike very controllable at very slow speeds, and it isnt that hard to master either. actually, all it takes is getting the feel for it. how to get into the friction zone: take note next time u start releasing the clutch. when the bike starts to move, u are actually starting to enter the friction zone. with just a wee bit more clutch, u will be fully in the friction zone. now u feather the rear brake, and the rpm's should be twice idle speed. u will know u are fully in the friction zone when u can goose the gas, and the bike doesnt buck. this will fool the bike into beliving its going faster than it really is. as long as u have power going to the rear wheel, u can put the bike into a peg scraping bank and not go down. the big key here is this: DONT LOOK DOWN. the bike will go where u look. if u look down, u will go down. how to conquer the cones: when in the friction zone, look at a spot about 3 or 5' ahead of the very last cone. u will see the rest of the cones in the periphrial vision. DO NOT look at the cone that's about to get close to the front wheel, or as sure as god made rain, u will run right over it. allow the bike to move and lean under u. the more u lean, the tighter the weave the bike will do. u want to feather the rear brake just enough to hold the bike back slightly. it takes just a little bit of practice, but if u do what i've told u, u will have no problems. ur sport bike is much lighter than my sportster. i took the bike test on my 1200, and easily passed. i recommend getting a vid from these guys. u will see how easy it is. http://www.ridelikeapro.com |
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