|
|
| *Vultures Knob>>>Road Bike |
Looking to buy a motorcycle, What should I look for? |
I've taken several rider courses and I've had my Motorcycle license for 5months, now I'm ready for the road. I'm looking for a used sports bike but have no clue on what to look for. Any suggestions? Oh, I forgot to mention I'm 5' tall and 115lbs. I think most of the respondents missed the fact that you want a SPORT BIKE. At your size and experience level, a Kawasaki Ninja 250 would be perfect for you. Another consideration would be the Suzuki GS500, which looks like a small Gixxer. How to Buy a Used Motorcycle There are many considerations in this process.. here are just a few. Steps 1. Decide what type of riding you will be doing most of. Commuting, sports, touring, or a combination of all. This is the most important criteria you will need to look at. Be honest with yourself on this one.. Testosterone will have a major influence on what you buy. A 1000 cc superbike might make your heart skip a beat, but there is a very good chance that you will hate it on the commute, and that your pillion will be uncomfortable on it. Track-days on a cruiser may also be disappointined. 2. Buy from a reputable dealership if possible. Private sales may be lower priced, but you will not have any comeback if the bike breaks down or blows up. Most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying. If you must buy from a private party, insist that you be able to take the bike to a reputable dealership to be assessed and inspected. A few dollars spent now could save you heaps of money and trouble in the future. In addition, dealerships can do an ownership history search for you to make sure the bike in question isn鈥檛 stolen or been listed as 鈥渨ritten off鈥?by an insurance company. 3. Check the bike out for yourself. Take some simple hand tools with you, including a flashlight and if you can, a multimeter * Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around 3鈦?鈥?of play and the teeth of the sprocket should not show obvious damage or wear. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn鈥檛 be much movement on a good set. * The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of uneven wear or damage. * Sit on the bike. Look at the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It should feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems. * While checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim * Put the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any 鈥榥otchy-ness鈥?or roughness in the steering head. * If possible, check the visible frame; remove the seat to see underneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away. * While the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a dodgy voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also. Pull a fuse or two out and check for corrosion. Do this with the engine off of course. (Also, check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery.) Replace the seat. * Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight (not a match or lighter鈥?.) 4. Take a test drive. * Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility if possible. Bring your bike license and proper gear if you have it. Most dealers will have loaner gear available for you to use. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance waiver; if privately, be ready to leave your license with the seller as security. * Pick a route that you are familiar with that has light traffic and good road conditions if possible. Start slowly and get used to the way the bike feels and responds. * Test the brakes. They should not 鈥榩ulse鈥? That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel spongy. * Accelerate through the gears. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel 鈥榗lunky鈥? * While on a straight, clean patch of road, weave left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct. * Listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have doubts about. 5. When the ride is finished, inspect the bike again, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal. 6. Request a service history. It is always a good thing to have, but for several reasons, they may not be available. Ask for an owner鈥檚 manual and factory toolkit if available. 7. Insurance is never optional. You will come off eventually. 8. Be realistic when negotiating on the final price of the bike. For a private seller, this may be his baby and insulting him now will ensure that you will not get a fair price. If at a dealership, realize that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over his shoulder. Do some research online, used the retail pricing guides if available or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike.. then set your buy price accordingly. Articles in category "Motorcycles" There are 28 articles in this category. # Buy a Motorcycle # Buy a Used Motorcycle # Change Spark Plugs on a Dirt Bike # Change the Oil and Oil Filter on a Motorcycle # Choose a Mini Chopper Store # Clutch Wheelies on a Motorcycle # Countersteer (Motorcycle) # Drive a Motorbike # Find Used Motorcycle Parts # Improve Night Visibility of a Motorcycle, Bicycle or Boat # Install Pinstriping or Reflective Tape on Your Car or Motorcycle # Install Reflective Tape or Reflective Decals and Graphics # Jump on a Dirt Bike # Look Cool on Your Brand New DT # Match Rev Downshift a Motorcycle # Measure Mileage of Your Motorcycle With a Reserve Tank # Race Your Street Motorcycle # Ride Your Motorcycle Down the Continental Divide # Ride a Dirt Bike # Ride a Harley Davidson # Ride a Honda Wave 100 # Ride a Mini Chopper in a Safe Way # Ride a Motorcycle 1000 Miles in 24 Hours # Safely Ride a Motorcycle at Night # Shift Gears on a Motor Bike # Take Advantage of Reverse Online Auction when Buying a Motorcycle # Transport a Motorcycle # Whip Your Dirtbike http://www.wikihow.com/category:motorcyc... A harley Hog or a Honda Bike. Your motorcycle won't even know that you are riding it. LOL. A Honda 300 CC is powerful enough for you. No point in going any higher. Love em myself. Stay away from two strokers. Total loss oil system. Nothing like a four stroke for reliability and performance. Two strokers have no take off acceleration at all. Suzuki!! If I were you, I'd consider a Harley Sportster. look for a helmet |
| Tags |
| Recumbent Bike Bmx Bike Kids Bike Schwinn Bike Cruiser Bike Road Bike Folding Bike Mountain Bike |
Bike Categories--Copyright/IP Policy--Contact Webmaster |