Looking for a good road bike for the money?

First, decide how much is "the money." Once you get past the WalMart junk, competition levels the game. Go to a bike shop and see what you can get for your budget. Test ride the bike. Now knowing what size you need, go to other shops and test ride what they have to offer. Because of intense competition, any two bikes at the same price point are very likely to be equal values. Test ride as many bikes as you can. Ignore brand names, marketing hype, and fancy brochures. You can't ride them. Don't get hung up on component groups. Once you get past the junk, they all work well and reliably. What's important is the way the bike fits and feels. One bike will fit you and feel better than the rest. You'll be able to tell this pretty quickly after sitting on the bike and test riding it for a few minutes. Buy that bike. It is the one you will ride the most and enjoy the most.

I have a little different opinion than intrepid. We agree that for particular price points bikes are very much alike.

I seem to find the difference to be the component groups.

To me a "good" road bike begins with Shimano 105 or Sram Rival. Since the frames are so similar the only real difference between two bikes are the components. I like to have the entire 105 group on an entry level bike and the "best" would be all Dura-Ace - or Sram Red. Campangolo is fantastic, but priced out of where I want to be.

You will find there are some bikes that are supposed to be the same level of performance and price level and when you check them out -- one has the entire 105 group and the other has no-name brakes, Tru-Vativ Cranks, 105 derailleurs. Take the bike with the entire 105 group.

I find that Trek is one that mixes components to save money but are priced in the same level as others that have one full group. They toss a Ulegra rear, 105 front --derailleurs, no name brakes, and Tiagra shifters.

That is why I ride a Bianchi. I bought an Easton Aluminum frame with carbon stays and fork, all 105 group for $100 less than a (then) Trek 1500 that has the mix I mentioned in the paragraph above.

Shop with a discerning eye. Look for a left over last years model for a good deal. Have the shop fit you before you test ride the bike -- and do test ride any bike you are about to buy. It will have many miles under you and fit is paramount. Don't buy at the first bike shop you enter, unless it is returning because it was the best deal you found.

decide how much you have to spend first , then look for last years mdels of road bikes and search online you can save hundreds by shopping around , i have seen models from last year reduced by thousands just cause its not this years model

When you're figuring how much to spend on a bike don't forget the cost of a helmet, gloves, water bottle or hydration bag, tools to carry on your bike, a frame pump spare tubes and front and rear lights and depending on how want to use your bike you may want a rear rack. Don't go cheap on your tools, at some point in time you will regret doing it. Also check into adult bicycling classes you may be be able to find them in your area or there is an on-line at www.learntobicycle.com

The general approach suggested by Intrepid is the way to go. I also agree with John D. If you can test ride some of last years models , then you may get either an online bargain, or some leverage to negotiate a better deal.

It is equally important to try models from different shops. The small local shops are often the best in the long term, ie, they will look after you.

Be wary of sales staff that say thing like we can change the stem to give you a better fit, ie, it means the frame doesn't fit. With a different stem it will feel quite different to your initial test ride, ie, it undoes all the good advice from Intrepid.

The levers for each brand are different in the way they operate and their feel, so take note of that as you test, as you are going to have your body weight on them for the whole of your ride. Most of th time you ride on the levers, ie, thumb and index around the top of the lever, so their different shape and contours are very much a personal choice.

Saddles need longer than a 10 minute test, eg, 1-2 hours. So make sure that you work out a plan for trialing and changing saddles before you pay for the bike. The ones with the big gap down the center look uncomfortable but often ease numbness of both male and female riders. More padding usually means more pain.

If you are not a good hill climber then ask about the gears. Nearly all off the shelf road bikes have a double clanger, rather than a triple. Check out the difference between a normal double a 'compact'. It is better to be under (lower) geared, and pedal with a faster cadance, than over geared and bugger up your knees grinding!

If you are fairly new to riding avoid carbon. It is unnecessary until you get to 'A' or 'B' class elite level. Adds a lot to the initial cost, is easy to damage and very expensive to repair, ie, most shops can't X-ray and repair cabon! EG, a friend with a carbon Kyoto had a slow speed fall, TT and DT snapped, $6000 down the drain! If he had been on a Alu frame it would have been some scratches on the bar tape, and maybe some wheel truing!

The secret as Intrepid says, its all about fit and feel of the specific bike, but in it's final adjusted form.

Like cars, good road bikes also need a good engine! In fact with bikes it is without doubt by far the most significant factor. Hope you have a good heart, lungs and sense of humour! The latter is for climbing the hills and the lungs are for the shieks of joy going down the other side!

See you on the road.