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| *Vultures Knob>>>Dirt Bike |
My husband has a suzuki 400 drz dirt bike when he tried to kick start it he heard a grinding noise.? |
Does anyone know what this could be? We are trying to determine whether we could fix it ourselves or if it needs to go to the shop. thanks If y'all are "nutsy-boltsy" types,,,you should be able to find the prob & fix it yourselves. Very simple & straighforward mechanism,,,problems are typically very obvious. It's a Constant Mesh Primary Kick type starter. Which means ALL the starter-related gears Are ALWAYS engaged,,,and turn anytime engine is turning. It drives the engine to start it via the Clutch/Primary gear,,,so you can start it in any gear by just pulling in the clutch---no need to go to Neutral. It has (#1)Kick Drive Gear>>(#2)Idler Gear>>(#3)Gear on Clutch Basket/Primary gear( a small diameter gear Behind the clutch) The #1 Kick Drive Gear FREEWHEELS on the Kicklever Shaft. The BACK of that gear has a ONE-WAY Ratchet Pawl cut into it. Thats a sort of sawtooth gear surface facing Lengthways along the shaft---sticking out the SIDE of the gear. Gear is held in place by a snapring in a groove on the shaft. Gear doesnt move laterally,,,is just freewheels around the shaft. NEXT,,directly adjacent is a Mating Pawl which is Splined to the Shaft,,,it slides laterally back & forth along the shaft. When you Move Kick Lever DOWN---as to start it........ GEAR remains STATIONARY--the shaft Turns within gear>it just Freewheels. But the Lever>by Turning the Shaft>then Drives the SPLINED-to-Shaft Sliding Engagement Pawl. A Coil-Wound Thrust Spring around the shaft,,, positioned BEHIND the engagement pawl,,, Pushes the Pawl's Teeth into the Teeth on the side-face of the Drive Gear. When the PAIR of Pawl Teeth engage,,,, The Freewheeling Gear is THEN locked to the shaft Via the engagement pawl & it's splines. The Kickstart Lever is Then locked to the Kickstart Drive gear. Moving the Lever,Moves the Gear,which Turns the Engine. The Pawl Teeth on both the Gear & the Engagement Pawl are a good place to look for wear>noise. Nothing achieves actual Pawl Engagement Actuation but the Thrust Spring mounted around the shaft & behind the Pawl. It TRIGGERS somewhat like a Mousetrap..... when Engage Pawl is Unlocked,, which is"Triggered" by the shaft's rotation..... The Retracted Pawl is Released to simply be pushed sideways by the thrust spring pressure. The Pawl Teeth are undercut a bit,,,so engagement is more positive under Foot Pressure. Tooth angle tends to wedge the 2 pieces tighter together when shaft torque is applied . PROBS: Tooth wear/damage on EITHER pawl mating surfaces. Even any foreign matter between the teeth which would prevent full engagement. OR,,,a "Sticky Pawl" in relation to it's lateral sliding along length of shaft. Spline wear /damage or Shaft TWIST can make the thing sticky and not slide freely into full engagement. Any other grinding noise is going to be Gear Tooth related on any of the 3 gears involved,,,, DRIVE,,,,IDLER,,,or Clutch Driven gear. POSSIBLE for a retainer to fail on Idler Gear Shaft,,, Makes a scary noise when Idler walks down it's shaft and lets the gear contact back of Clutch--- while the 2 overlapping surfaces are travelling at different speeds cuz of the reduction ration. So check the Idler Gears end float,, and Definitely whatever retains the gear in specific position. (Usually a snapring & thrust washer---on yours I dunno??) Whatever method to retain the Idler Gear's position,,,it'll be obvious. The whole Kickstart Shaft should come out as an Assembly. IMPORTANT!!!>>>You gotta TURN the Shaft Counter clockwise---in Normal Starting/Kick Direction----to GET IT Out of the Case. The Pawl Retractor will hold it locked into the case & it wont come out without Turning the shaft Release the Kick RETURN spring to take the pressure off the shaft,,,, then turn Shaft a little while pulling Gently. You'll feel it unlock and it'll slip out VERY Easy. When you RE-INSTALL the shaft back into Engine case... Mind the Position of the Pawl Retraction Tab!. It must turned AWAY from it's "hook" on the Case. Simply turn the Shaft Counterclockwise while pushing IN till it's seated. Then turn it CLOCKWISE to swing the Pawl Retractor around into it's hook. Give the gear a spin,,,it should then be released & Freewheeling again. If NOT,,,,Try Again,,,and you might have to give the shaft a pretty good twist CLOCKWISE to get the Pawl latched and retracted. The Lever Return Spring,,,is sorta goofy to "time",,,but not too bad. Put spring on Shaft,,,, you only have "2 choices" 1 way is Correct,, Other way is 180* Opposite---Half way 'round/opposite. Judge by the relationship between spring's Hook end and it's anchor point in the case. It'll be Obvious which way it goes. Once the retutn spring is on shaft,, push in the spring guide to hold it in place,, then hook the end of spring on it's anchor. CAREFUL of fingers with the spring! It's all a Lot simpler and more straightforward than it sounds to explain it. Damage is " 98% Chance " going to be OBVIOUS. If there's any tricky part to Inspection,,,,it's a STICKY PAWL. That can be Intermittent under varying loads,temps,,sometimes just for helluvit. I suggest getting a shop manual or a copy of a Parts Diagram to see how it goes. Remove & Replace the Shaft Assy---about the only "trick" is to Mind the position of the Pawl Retractor Tab. Shaft MUST be Turned AWAY from Full Return/Lever UP position. Think of it as "1/4 Kicked" Position,,to both Remove and Install. Once Shaft installed>>THEN Turn it to Full Up position to Lock it in and release the Gear back to Freewheeling state. Use a NEW GASKET,,and make sure gasket surfaces are CLEAN of all old gasket material. Careful when scraping old gasket,,,the engine parts are Soft and rather easy to gouge. Hope it's nothing to serious,,,it's probably not. Good Luck ***If you have a hard time seeing the gear BEHIND the clutch which the Idler gear drives,,,, You Might can use a Mirror & Bright Light to see it & check it's condition. Without removing the clutch. ................................. * damaged engagement pawl--including balky sliding * damaged teeth * idler walked & rubbing into back of clutch * foreign matter between any gear teeth That covers vast majority of probabilities. Other possible causes of "grinding noise" are very obscure & rare. My appologies for being so long winded Get a Manual or Parts Diagram and Dig In! Picture's worth a 1000 words,,,it's real simple stuff. Sounds like there is an issue with the gear teeth in the kick start. If you know what you are doing, it would be easy to fix. If not, then I would suggest that you take it to the shop. sounds like the spring that keeps the kick start gear in it's place has sprung, if you or your husbund is somewhat mechanical, you could poss. fix it yourself good luck |
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