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| *Vultures Knob>>>Cycling |
Has anyone in the bike industry found a Rock Shox Totem fork that actually works like it should? |
I've had nothing but problems with mine (coil) and heard of nothing but problems in all the other models. Just want to know if it's across the board. If you purchased the fork and put it on another bike, is the travel the same as the old one? If this is the case and the travel is longer than original by more than, say, 15mm you have upset the geometry and the bike SHOULD act poorly. Shock operation is influenced heavily by the frame geometry. With a 180mm travel fork it is especially important to have a correct frame or you run the chance (the PROBABILITY) of ripping off the headtube. If you are having operational problems, it could be that you are either not used to the shock or that it isn't dialed in yet. This is the kind of equipment that really needs to have that personal touch. The Totem is an excellent freeride fork, but it kinda sucks as an XC or full mountain model. This is why there are so many models... so you can pick the correct one for your application. EDIT: Apologies if I insulted your intelligence, but there was no basis in your question... how would anyone know what you know and what you don't unless you say so? If it knocks that means your springs are probably too stiff... but then you know that already. Almost all forks are set up from the factory for riders 140 to 180 pounds... but you probably knew that already too. And, if the travel is longer than the original fork it is the frame geometry... and even though you already knew this, no fork regardless of brand will operate correctly. This final reason is my guess of what is wrong. But you knew that. Source(s): 27 years in the industry Just IMO I had the same problems/s..I changed out to lighter springs and threw in 10 weight oil..now it is buttery smooth |
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