I just hit the 600 mile mark on my cruiser. According to Yamaha, I now need to change the oil. They recommend Yamalube oil. People have told me to stick with Yamalube, but wouldn't Castrol or another good oil brand do the job? Do I really need to spend that much more on Yamalube? Also, is it true its a pain to change the oil filter on this particular model of bike? This is my first oil change, I need good advice. Thanks all! Yamaha asks for 20w-40 oil. I can't find that weight in motorcycle oil anywhere! What should I use as a substitute? You don't need to use Yamalube. Use the proper weight oil - 20W-50 if I remember correctly. One thing that VERY important is DO NOT use a "energy conserving" oil. This will be labeled on the back of the oil bottle. It's shown on that starburst with the sae ratings.
The V-Star uses a wet clutch and if you use "energy conserving" oil it will not lube the clutch properly. It's actually too "slipperry" and the clutch plates will slip.
If you ask 10 people you'll get 10 different answers on what oil to use. I prefer Mobil 1 V-Twin oil. It's synthetic and I change it every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. I've heard some people go 10,000 with this before changing. It's twice as expensive but because it is a PIA to change the filter (not oil only) in this bike that is worth extra to me. Plus the bike runs cooler and shifts smoother.
To change the filter it is a PIA. The first time I did it it took me abput 90 minutes. After doing it a couple of times I've got it down to about 30-45 minutes now. It's not hard or difficult. Just time consuming.
Here's the procedure for you. The dealer will charge you about $100.00 to do this.
V-Star 1100 Oil and Filter Change
This is a very simple workable procedure to use the first time you change your oil and filter. It enables you to change your oil and filter without a lift, or special blocks to ride up on etc鈥?br>
Tools needed:
6, 8 and 10mm Allen (hex) key 3/8" sockets or 鈥淭鈥?wrenches
Socket wrench (3/8") and a 2鈥?& 10鈥?extension
12, 14 & 17mm. sockets
8 and 17mm short box wrenches
Funnel
Shallow oil drain pan.
Short section of a 2鈥漻4鈥?piece of wood. About 4鈥?long will do.
Supplies needed:
Oil 鈥?4 Quarts of MC specific oil (your choice)
Oil filter 鈥?Yamaha 4X7-13440-90
Wipe rags & Paper towels
A 10鈥?square of aluminum foil paper towels
1. ) With your bike in gear, place the short piece of 2鈥漻4鈥?under your side stand. The small block of wood positions the bike in more of an upright attitude. This will give you a bit of working room under the bike, but it will not raise it to the point of going over in the other direction.
2. ) Locate and lightly loosen the following bolts and nuts:
The oil drain plug - With the 17mm. socket wrench, Break loose the oil drain plug, but do not unscrew it (make sure that you have not loosened it to the point where the oil starts to seep out. (The silver colored bolt on the underside of the case, on the left side of the bike under the shifter)
The two nuts holding the forward exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold with a 12mm socket wrench (Just break them free, do not remove them)
3. ) Take the bike out of gear. Remove the block of wood from under the side stand and warm the engine up by starting it and letting it idle for a few minutes. Then shut it down.
4. ) Put the bike back in gear and place the wood block back under the side stand. Slide the shallow oil drain pan under the engine and back out the oil drain bolt using either the 17mm short box wrench or the 17mm. socket wrench, so that you can unscrew it the rest of the way and remove it with your fingers. Clean the drain bolt with a rag and put it aside.
5. ) Using the 10mm hex socket, remove the two bolt holding the mufflers to the frame. Next, loosen the clamps holding the front pipes to the mufflers using the 6mm hex socket. Using the wipe rags (HOT!), pull the mufflers toward the back of the bike. They should slide right out.
6. ) (This step is only required if you have an 1100 Classic with floorboards) Using the 14mm socket and wrench, loosen the two bolts holding the right floorboard until they are almost completely out, and the floorboard will hang down slightly.
7. ) Next, using the 8 mm wrench, remove the bolt holding the rear brake reservoir. Let the unit hang loose.
8. ) Using the 12mm socket, remove the two nuts on the forward exhaust pipe flange. Grabbing the front of the pipe with wipe rags, gently remove the front exhaust pipe. Take extreme care in removing the pipe as you will scratch it (like the dealer鈥檚 shop always does) if you are not careful. If the copper gasket falls off the engine, just let it go. I promise you that it will be very, very HOT! Just make sure that it goes back on when you re-assemble the pipes.
9. ) Using the 8mm hex socket with the 10 in. extension (or an 8mm. 鈥淭鈥?wrench) loosen the five case screws holding the filter cover. There are 3 different lengths of screws, so leave them in the cover. You don't need to remove the 3 screws holding the round 鈥淵amaha beauty鈥?cover. There is nothing behind this. Remove the filter cover. If you wrap a small square of aluminum foil over the section of frame and wiring just below the filter cover, you will avoid slopping oil over the frame of your bike.
10. ) You will find an unpolished filter hatch plug underneath which you will need to wiggle back and forth as you pull straight out to remove it. Be careful not to damage the O-rings on the cover. Wipe any grit or dirt away with a clean paper towel.
11. ) Remove the filter (pay attention to the orientation of the filter when you remove it). Wipe any sediment from the filter chamber with a clean paper towel and insert the new filter.
12. ) Reinstall all parts in the reverse order of disassembly
13. ) Unscrew the black plastic oil filler cap and insert the funnel into the filler hole. Engine Oil with oil filter replacement (3.28 US qt) ( 0.28 quart = 8.96 oz ) Engine Oil- Without oil filter replacement
(3.17 US qt) ( 0.17quart = 5.44oz )
Start the bike and bring it up to full operating temperature. Check for any signs of leaking oil from the filter hatch and the drain plug.
When you shut the engine down, check your oil level in the sight glass on the left side lower engine case. The bike must be held level front to back and side to side. This is quite a balancing act as your head needs to be about 14鈥?off the ground in order to see the oil level in the sight glass. You can use regular oil for your bike. Sweet ride, man.... You can't get a better filter and oil than Amsoil.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/default... I use 20-50 from Castrol synthetic in my Roadstar, my son uses the same in his 02 V-star 1100 I USE GOLDEN SPCTRO 20 50 AND ON MY VULCAN 2000 AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM AND I CHANGE IT EVER 5K. AND YES STAY AWAY OF THE ENERGY CONSERVING OIL IT WILL MAKE YOUR CLUTCH SLIP |
