|
|
| *Vultures Knob>>>Bike Pedals |
2006 Specialized SX Trail 1 weight reduction? |
I want to keep the overall strength of the bike but would like to bring the weight down. The current set-up is as follows, however I am going to switch to a Fox 36 Vanilla R Ti Spring for the shock A new wheelset (How is the DT Swiss EX1750) X-9 Shifter REAR SHOCK 06 Fox DHX 4.0 Coil FORK Marzocchi 66VF2 170MM STEM Truvative Hussefelt HANDLEBARS Specialized OS Freeride FRONT BRAKE Avid Juicy 5 Hydraulic, 8" REAR BRAKE Avid Juicy 5 Hydraulic, 8" REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X-9 SHIFT LEVERS SRAM X-7 trigger CASSETTE Shimano HG50 CHAIN SRAM PC-971 CRANKSET Truvativ Holzfeller w/BlackSpire DS-1 BOTTOM BRACKET Truvative Howitzer PEDALS 9/16" alloy platform RIMS Mavic EX325 FRONT HUB Specialized Disc 20mm REAR HUB Specialized Disc 10mm bolt-on SPOKES DT Swiss 2.0mm stainless, brass nipples FRONT TIRE WTB Timberwolf Race 2.3 REAR TIRE Specialized Roller Pro 2.3 (after market 850g) TUBES Specialized SADDLE WTB Power V Cro-Mo You didn't mention WHY you wanted to cut thwe weight down. If it is just to save weight then I guess you can do anything. If you want it for performance gain then there is a better and less expensive way. I am in the business of designing bikes and think you might be barking up the wrong tree... let me explain... First, improving performance by saving weight is all about WHERE you save the weight. It is ridiculous to spend big money on a lighter saddle and Ti springs in your shock, at least initially. Wheels is where you want the savings, when you save an ounce (28g) on each wheel it is equal in performance to saving a POUND (448 grams) off anything else. Rotating mass is your enemy. A change to lighter tires and tubes will save that tiny bit of weight. The farther out on the wheel you save the weight, the better performance you will get, so start with tires, then tubes, then rims... that oughta get you sliced down at least 8 ounces per wheel... or a performance difference equal to an 8 POUND savings anywhere else. So, before you go blowing hundreds of bucks on upgrades, add together the weight savings on non rotating parts. If you don't reach over 448 grams then just get lighter tires and tubes... it will be much cheaper take a whole lot less effort. If on the other hand you just want to lighten it for the cool factor, then there is nothing stopping you. Source(s): 27 years in the industry How do you ride the bike? If you don't need the drop strength, then you could switch some parts and save a ton of weight.....at high cost, though. I agree that wheels are the best savings, but if you're downhilling, strong heavy wheels are kinda mandatory unless you're sponsored, or if your mom buys your tires. :o) Three things that stood out to me: spend a mint on some carbon freeride handlebars; buy a lighter cassette (or consider going 8 speed with a single up front); and a 6" rotor in the rear would shave off a lot of steel, plus the adaptor. You can always save a lot of weight in the seatpost and stem, too....but you want those parts to be Strong Like Ox, even with long legs on the frame. Another thing is pedals.....beefy platforms weigh a lot. |
| Tags |
| Bike Repair Bicycle Shop Bike Tours Trail Map Bike Pedals Bike Lock Bike Lights Bike Helmet Quad Bike |
Bike Categories--Copyright/IP Policy--Contact Webmaster |