I am the owner of a 14 month old siberian husky named Nova. She is a sweet little fluff but loves to run, we take her to the park about 6 times a week but I often feel that is not enough even with a few walks a day. She is an energy beast and somewhat of a houdini dog, she somehow manages to get out of her crate when locked in for longer than 10 minutes. I am to the point where I have to lock her in the kennel with my bike lock for added security. She doesnt mind going in the kennel when we are in the house, but if she knows that we are leaving the hose she throws a fit. I am wondering if it would be possible to build a fence around the perimeter of the house cemting the edges in to see if she would stay, but as that is a lot of work I am wondering if it would be worth it, or if she would just "houdini" her way out of it. Even with a fence (any type of fence), I would not leave her outside while you are away from the house.
I have had the "invisible" type of fence for over 10 years now.
The "invisible" type of fence is not cruel like some people on this site will tell you. The shock that it gives is mild (and yes, I have been shocked by it). The shock value is immeasurable. The better type of fence systems collars also give a warning beep when the dog gets near the perimeter well before delivering a shock. With proper training the dog will learn quickly where it can and cannot go. Hence it won't get a shock. Most of the people who will tell you that they don't work are ignorant about the fences in the first place or they bought one (maybe a junk one like PetSafe and many others), slapped the collar on the dog and then booted him out the door without training him. And sometimes they are just plain stupid, and you can't fix stupid.
Sometimes a conventional fence is not an option either due to the cost of fencing a large piece of property or because some housing developments have restrictions on fences.
Sometimes a conventional fence will not contain your dog at all. He can go over it or under it.
If you are looking for an Invisible Fence brand fence you will have to contact a local dealer for a price to install it though I can almost guarantee it will be over $1000.00. If you wish to install it yourself (and it's pretty easy to do in 2 - 3 hours depending on the size of your property) it is available online (but not I/F brand).
The "invisible" type of fence consists of three things. First is the wire which is buried an inch or two into the ground. This wire defines the outer perimeter of the containment area. You can also block off areas (flowerbeds, pools etc) within the containment area. Some experimentation may be necessary in this. Second is the transmitter that is mounted to the wall indoors and connected to the fence wire, and third is the collar that the dog wears. The transmitter sends out an AM radio band signal that the collar will sense if your pet gets to close to the electronic field. The collar will then deliver a correction. Some of the better ones will give a warning beep prior to delivering a shock. Though it is a strong shock it will not harm the pet in any way. Small marker flags are placed along the inner edge of the field about 5 to 10 feet apart during the training period and removed (every other one) as the pet gets used to the fence.
Huskies are escape artists. We have 16 of them. The only thing that I have found that they can't go over or under is invisible type fencing. Some folks say that it doesn't work on Huskies. They don't know what they are talking about. You can't buy the cheap stuff, like what they sell at Lowe's or Home Depot or PetSmart etc. The best I have found is the Smart Dog 2100 by Innotek. You can find it on line at several sites, discounted for less than $170.00 with 1 collar. Extra collars are about $80.00. The kit has everything needed including 500' of wire and flags, enough to do a quarter acre. Expansion kits (500' of wire and flags) are available for $38.00 and will contain a bit more than an acre. The collars are rechargeable (unlike the "Invisible Fence" and most others where you have to buy the proprietary (one place to get it = expensive) batteries every 3 or so months), has battery backup for the transmitter, run through prevention, waterproof, etc. if you are in an area that has a lot of thunderstorms I would consider a lighting protection module ($50.00). Innotek now owns Invisible Fence brand. Be sure to use heat shrink type crimp on butt connectors on the wire if needed. They are available at marine supply stores. Do not use the "weatherproof wire nuts" from Lowe's etc. They will not work for long in this application. Use an edger to dig the "trench" for the wire. The wire only has to be buried 1 or 2 inches down. The yard will 鈥渉eal鈥?within a few days normally. Crossing driveways can be done two ways, wash a tunnel underneath with a garden hose or use a Skilsaw with a concrete blade to cut a groove an inch or so deep, put the wire in and seal it with a concrete sealer. For a gravel driveway, dig a trench an inch or so wide and a a bout 3 or 4 inches deep, lay an old piece of garden hose in the trench and put the wire through. This will protect the wire from the gravel cutting it when run over by a car.
The key is taking the time to train your pet. I have known of people to pay big money to install a fence, strap the collar on their dog and then complain that the fence is junk when the dog blows right through it. Also, you do not mention the breed of dog. Longhaired breeds require a longer contact probe on the collar (these are included with the system above). Training may take awhile, one of ours took 18 months (she was a bit stubborn) before we trusted her, most were pretty good in a month or so and we have one that it only took 3 days! The amazing thing is that we can take the collar off, put them on a leash and when we head towards the perimeter their brakes come on immediately! You can also block off areas of the yard that you don't want them in. When hurricane Isabelle came through we had no power for 3 weeks, the terrain was changed with all the fallen trees, and the underground wire for the fence was damaged and NONE of the kids even tried the fence. As I said earlier, the people who say that it doesn't work don't know what they are talking about. We have 16 Huskies (17 until we lost one over the summer due to medical reasons), all free to run around, contained in our 6 acre yard. And no I am not a dealer ..... just a satisfied customer with 16 hardheaded Huskies most of them rescued as adults. We can leave them outside unsupervised for hours with no problems. However, we do not leave them outside when we leave the house.
It will not keep other animals out including the neighbor鈥檚 brats. Neither will a 6 foot stockade fence ... this I learned when I lived elsewhere and was attacked by a neighbors dog in my backyard. As far as people being scared of dogs, well if a 15 to 20 foot barrier field isn't enough, neither would a chain link fence be. Besides, if the pet stays on your property who cares if they are unreasonably scared. As far as a dog running through ... well yes, that could happen, however, with proper training it is unlikely. Huskies have an extremely high prey drive. Where we live we have a lot of wildlife, large and small. The kids will line up along the edge of the field and watch the rabbits, geese, deer etc. They won't challenge the fence. The deer and geese have learned where the kids can and cannot go and will stay just outside "Husky country". Sometimes within 5 feet of the kids. As I said it does work. The key is training. That is the most important part of the installation of the fence.
Some people advocate the 鈥渨ireless鈥?type of fence. You have little control over the coverage area. The other problem with them is "dead" areas caused by obstructions to the signal by things in your walls, trees and even a parked car. Your dog WILL find these areas.
Others advocate tying a pet out 鈥渂ecause 鈥渋nvisible鈥?fences are so cruel!鈥?Or 鈥渨hy do you want to electrocute your dog?鈥? however, think about what could your pet do if attacked by another animal while tied? Where is he going to go to get away? At least with an 鈥渋nvisible鈥?fence or a conventional fence he has a decent chance of evading an attacker or fighting back.
Please note though ..... you MUST not leave your dog out 24/7 with the collar on. You MUST bring him in at night and remove the collar. If you do not remove the collar he WILL most likely develop sores were the probes contact the skin which can become infected quickly opening a whole new can of worms.
25 years of being owned by Siberian Huskies. I currently have 16 Huskies most of whom were rescued by us from people who didn鈥檛 know what they were getting into. My dogs are fine in their fence, but it is a 6 foot chain link. Just pay attention and make sure there aren't any weak spots.
Buckets and brand new cat litter boxes are great to make sure she has plenty of water. yeah thats ok to leave the dog outside make sure it can jump the fence tho? if u need to keep her on a leash that will stop her from getting to close to the fence? She might or might not. Just depends on if she's happy and occupied inside the fence, how big/strong the fence is, and how mischevious she is. She would 'Houdini' her way out of a fence.Sibes are great dogs but LOVE to play and run. Anything they see as being interesting they WILL find a way to get to it.... Absolutely not. Huskies are ALL Houdini's. They can get out of a concrete box, cemented inside of a plastic box, dropped underwater then buried with cars. They'll get out of it .
The bottom of the fence needs to be lined with some type of VERY heavy block or rocks on BOTH sides to prevent digging. The fence needs to be higher than eight and a half feet, too. If possible, put an anti-jump on it (its attached and slants IN ( \ ) to prevent a dog from jumping out.
She needs a stronger crate, too. They'll eat anything that's keeping them confined. Talk to trainers and breeders and get suggestions on how to make a better, and safer environment for her.
Remember, no dog should ever be left in a fence unwatched and un attended, ANYTHING can happen. Frankly, the best solution for keeping a Siberian outside when you are not home is, IMO, a kennel run inside of a fenced in, Siberian-proofed yard.
Yes, this can mean a chain link kennel run with a chain link "ceiling", as some Siberians will climb. And you must (MUST) have some way of preventing digging out of the yard. Some people sink the fence 6" to a foot below the soil surface. Some people use an electric wire running along the fence.
But, you know, she may well scream and fret and find her way through all of this stuff if she's bored and lonely.
You imply that you want to leave her in the yard so that she can exercise. Dogs alone in a yard don't exercise themselves...unless they are a Siberian trying to escape because they are bored. Otherwise, she will sleep until you get home. So keeping her inside a kennel run will not necessarily defeat the purpose of trying to exercise her. She probably wouldn't do it on her own, anyway.
The best thing for a Siberian is, often, another dog. Siberians are pack-oriented, and if they are the "only dog", you are their pack. The get lonely when left for the day. If they have a buddy, they have part of their pack. Someone to play with and interact with, which provides them with exercise and something to keep them occupied.
I'm not suggesting you get another dog, but Siberians really do better in homes where they have another dog buddy, or can visit a dog buddy (i.e. your neighbor, dog daycare, etc.).
Just some ideas for you to ponder. |
